Відео

Would love to see more 1/10 Scale from Kyosho. 2WD and 4WD would be nice so I can race them against the other new cars out there. I am a big Kyosho fan. Who purchased Kyosho? I must have missed that?

Now look at the R1 Wurks hop ups for the B7 like the 3 gear transmission and direct drive unit 😀

My new TRF421 - Paid just over £500 Delivered from Germany. Spares like the Arms are a third of the price of Schumacher, X-ray, Mugen etc. and are readily available (look at schumacher and mugen availability recently) Tamiya prices are just shocking in the UK because of the markup of the UK distributor. Same goes for the tt-02SRX you love to hate on. buy from Germany and its half the price. parts availability is a non issue if willing to wait a couple of days and buy from Germany or RCJaz etc in HK. I agree buggies it makes no sense unless you have one already from messing about and you want to dip your toe into racing. Touring cars you logic is extremely flawed.

for me it would be the top force because I don't have one 👍👍

which tarmac tires would you use on the procat?

Did you use loctite on the front steering HUBS?

Thank you so much Sir!! Super nice of you building the rc in detail!!😊❤🎉

Thank you very much for the wonderful video Sir!!❤🎉😊

Do you know the Tamiya part number for the H wing set??? can't find it anywhere :) Thanks

Looks cool..

I would not totally agree with that statement. Most cars used in rc rally competitions are xv01s and 02s. Only fiew others like lc ptg racing rally platform. It really depends on what u're doing...

I’m not convinced of the validity comparing an old tamiya to a new team associated for the same money, and while I am a tamiya fan, I get that they are not race bred, but so do tamiya, that isn’t where the market is. Not anymore. I think people buy a tamiya because it looks awesome for the most part. If all you want is to win races, it probably doesn’t matter what brand it is as long as it wins the race? I don’t know as I’m not a racer, and explains why my shelves are full of mostly Tamiya’s lol

interesting comparison, but the Durga wins for as its the better looking buggy.....

I will never buy one for any purpose. They are decades out of date. They are stuck in the 70s-80s.

Great content, happy days !

This is an interesting comparison. I am looking for ward to the next installment of the Tamiya soap opera.

Sorry gav but…same bodyshell?

Can someone do this in Yorkshire please?

durga needs alot more initial steering. do tamiya make different castors ? great vid

Tamiya fan boy here. I’m sorry. But. As stated already. Tamiyas are for fun and fun racing. Simply the truth. I have PR Racings, Schumachers etc and plenty of Tamiyas. Each have their own purpose and best for. Simple really. 👍🏻. Cool video and good to make it this into a video series.

I know you've gone for the click bait title and subject, but why not try it again with Kyoshos equivalent, the DB01s club racer rival the Kyosho ZX5 Ready Set and see how you get on. Most of the upgrades you've bought certainly aren't needed, the DB01 usually just raced with a slipper and pin mount blocks upgraded. The CVAs need a lot of tuning, but a set of DF03 shocks would do the job without the expense of the big bores.

What is the point ??!!

In 1/10 Touring, Tamiya is a good choice. Lot of spare parts and there is the new trf 421 👍

Not video related but wanted to ask the question ti you and anyone other watchers. I already have a TT-02 Type S that i use as a tarmac toy and i race a TT-02 in the Tamiya Tourers at my local club so I know the TT-02 chassis fairly well my question is what 2wd/4wd buggy would you suggest as an off road play thing. Dont really want to spend more than £200 all in as i don't plan on racing with it. Not adverse to a few upgrades over time if stuff breaks. Thanks for your time and apologies if this sort of thing isn't appropriate/acceptable. (Not trying to offend anyone.)

Interesting, lap 22 in the DB01 wasn't clean yet your quickest. At least 1 sec available. How many hours have you driven the PR Racing vs the DB01?

Great video, cheers Gav

The Tamiya db01 is a 17 year old car, it was designed for rough dry dusty slippery tracks, going to take a bit of fiddling to make it work well in modern high grip grip tracks.

Love all your videos man! That said the comparison really isn't 1:1 if you aren't running the same electrics and tires. Pretty much all your points are spot on but one. The only thing yoyd likely beeak on the TRF5xx cars woild be parts shared with the DBs. They are expensive xor sure, but if you can addord and you are A Tamiya Nerd, nothing else will do

If only the Americans put so much effort, performance, reliability and customer respect into their real cars that they do in their R/C cars! Building a Tamiya to the same competitive level as an Associated or Losi is doable but is only for experts and die-hard brand fans!

only race Tamiya against other Tamiya in special classes for them

Like myself i can tell your obviously an f1 nut, the only way to compare comparatively is to exactly do what your saying with same electronics, new tyres etc. it is pretty pointless people stating they can beat another car when it is another driver, i mean a prime example in todays modern f1 racing is Max versus perez and we know whos always on top in that scenario!

68 pounds for a pair of front dampers? Then you also bought a pair for the rears for 68 I guess as well. OMG! At what price does UK charge for customs fees? I don't know what's with Tamiya compared to other brands where all brands have almost the same price whichever country you buy them from but with Tamiya, you can only buy them cheap from Japan and Hong Kong. The rest have these inflated prices.

I would like to see some retro style new offerings from classic brands. Vintage 540 brushed motors and esc's are getting very expensive, if they even work.

Hello Gavin, I just got shipping confirmation of my RC10t truck. In fact, I might get it tomorrow. Thoughts?

Tamiya RC's aren't usually the best at anything but are a fun build and endearing. Whatever you buy, if you have the choice of preassembled or a kit, get the kit, its a huge part of the rc experience.

Hi Gavin, I believe you skip out an important fact for the Durga: HEAVY standard chassis! 😂 I know my car is a porker but the optional lighter carbon reinforced chassis does not come cheap either. Do source the "lightweight" chassis to see if it helps the performance even more. There are three versions available: carbon reinforced with holes for side by side pack, db01R chassis and finally the db01RR/RRR chassis. Good luck finding the last one new 😂

The next track test, will be more accurate. New tires on both, with the same Motor & ESC 👍🏻

Excellent comparison. To get a second or so a lap out, for an older buggy isn't, bad truth be told. For a Tamiya it actually does well. Be very interesting that once the electronics and tyres are matched on both cars to see how comparible they are. Awesome series Gavin. Great fun watching your driving improving by leaps and bounds too.

£68 for shocks?! If that was for all four please tell me where!😂 Interesting stuff, the approach of testing cars back to back is a sound one and as you say removing as many variables as you can is the best way to go about it. I always wished the rc mags did that back in the day. So from a pure analysis point I'm loving this series. Fanboy hat on, you touched upon the major issue of running most any Tamiya model in the UK; parts supply. The importer doesn't seem to see any value in even attempting to supply anything of the race biased models sadly. Looking forward to the next episode!

Very nice video sir. Same here in the Philippines, Tamiya off-road [dirt] are seldom raced here. You might see a few but is heavily modified or sometimes "customized" with DIY parts. On the on-road seen [concrete] you can find a few Tamiya's [TT01/TT02/TAs] but again heavily modified/customized. The TRF line is very expensive here compared to a Mugen Seiki, PR Racing. It is almost comparable to an X-Ray, AE , Losi. One issue though with modifying/upgrading is that a stock rc has an inherent weak-point/s. Modifying it will only transfer this weak-point/s to another area. Then again if you are a "purist", cost does not matter.

Hi , what's the weight difference between the 2 racing?

so there was a 15.5T in the DB and 6.5T in the PR - and the PR was faster, wow, that's so amazing!, such a great video gav, trigger those fanboys!

I do a bit of racing, too. Currently touring cars. TT01 in stock class. The thing about Tamiya is that you can actually do that and only spend a reasonable low amount of money. Then you can advance to the top stock (TA0x, TT02SRX, TBxx), which still is a reasonable amount of money. Only in the highest class (which happens to be rather open), you race TRF, XRay and similar where the big money is hidden. That's the thing about Tamiya. You probably don't have high end but there is a full range which hardly any other manufacturer can provide... And an TRF421 most likely can compete with x-ray and similar

Trf kits tamiya has world championships n on off road competition ask marc rienhard david jun a brit won a euro off road championship with 2wd zahak buggy j martin i think his name was they have you need if you have $ for thier higher level kits

To be fair, it did ok. I guess that was a base set up ? If you spent the time im sure you could get some of that time back. P.S stay safe 👍😁

Well, one thing is completely different (apart the 15+ years design gap) on both... the drive train. One is shaft, the other is belt 😉 1 sec per lap, not that bad for a belt car designed for dirt 🤔

I wish I had a off road carpet track. Clay is a PITA.

Absolutely stunning work! The Trickbits kit does the original one justice and honor. I think your original YZ-10 has an upgraded steering configuration. I recall the original links would mount directly between the steering blocks and bellcranks, and there was a piece of piano wire with bends in between the bellcranks to keep them lined up. According to Team Associated, the purpose of Green Slime is to protect the O-rings from coming into contact with shock oil because silicone causes the rubber to swell. It’s not to prevent leaks but to prevent the shock shafts from binding after some time. When building shocks, I have found it to be rather handy to drop the piston in its place and slide the seals and spacers on the shaft first, then slide them into the bottom of the shock body as one package. This allows you to see that everything is there in the correct order and prevents you from poking out the last bits with the shock shaft.

Good evening am a recent subscriber love you content I have a TA03F attic find Runs lovely but want to upgrade motor and shocks ? Am a complete novice and looking for advice Much appreciated Sion

Tamiya is definitely not the sensible option for racing.. but hey.. for most of us racing Tamiya’s it is more of a trip down memory lane.. as for cost.. we spend tons of money on cars that are gonna sit on a shelf.. or worse never come out of the box.. looking forward to seeing how far you can take that 2007 buggy, should do better than expected🖖